ISCHIA
Next, after a small stop in Naples, I headed to Ischia with Domenico Mazzella. The extraordinary curative properties of the thermal waters on the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples have been known for over 2500 years. The springs and ancient natural baths are of literal legend. We entered the baths from the beach side, walking through great cavernous volcanic walls made up of a soft almost sand-like soil. The roots of hanging foliage help hold it together. The thermal baths now are the same as what they were when these healing waters were discovered. We walked in the same stone pools, steamed in the ancient stone rooms, showered under the same thermal spring waters. The healing properties are legendary and the origins recorded in story:
“It is written that the giant Tifeo was imprisoned by Zeus inside Mount Epomeo. After centuries of punishment the giant implored Venus to request his pardon from Zeus. When hot waters ran from the repenting rebel’s eyes, the father of the Gods was moved by pity. He thus pardoned Tifeo and transformed his tears into natural thermal waters.”
A natural reflexology pool was a highlight. Cold water alternates with warm, and one slowly walks across the stones at least ten times in a circular fashion. This action is said to provide serious and lasting health benefits. The more times you walk, the more benefits you will receive. It is a walking meditation brilliantly conceived from nature. The entire location is simple, unadorned, and the feeling was magical.
The wine Biancolella, and rabbit, the culinary symbol of the island, were also the focus of our time there, visiting the Mazzella vineyard (no relation to Domenico, or as they joked, perhaps there is) and having lengthy discussions. Our guide was the vigorous and extroverted Antonio Mazzella, who at close to seventy years works the land and nurtures his rabbits high above the waters. Antonio works with his son Nicola, the third generation of winemakers. The Biancolella grapes grow in a perfectly balanced eco-climate of sea, salt, sun, and air, infused with the scents and tastes of the herbs, flowers, and grasses that grow right alongside the vines in the same volcanic soil type as the thermal baths.
Wine has been made on the island since the eighth century B.C., when Greek colonists chose Ischia as their far western outpost in the Mediterranean and brought their system of terracing, training, and pruning grapevines. These methods are still used today. The soft white Biancolella is famous for its minerality and flavor that comes from this particular volcanic soil and sea-salt air. It pairs wonderfully with Coniglio all’Ischitana.
According to Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement, “it [rabbit] represents peasant wisdom: nothing is wasted. In fact, the rabbits eat a diet prescribed by the ancients – fruit, tree trimmings, fig leaves, vine shoots and tasty greens.” This Ischian rabbit dish has been a typical dish for centuries due to the abundance of wild rabbits on the island. Though most farmers today breed rabbits in cages, the ancient and traditional way to breed rabbits was to let them run free in narrow tunnels three to four meters long underneath the ground. Antonio prefers the cages, so he can separate out the male rabbits and control the number of litters. Less offspring for the mother rabbit allows greater quantities of milk to be shared.
Antonio was a masterful storyteller; painting a vivid picture of his acquisition of the land and the many years he has worked it. The vineyards, high in elevation, seem as if they are falling into the sea. As we enjoyed stunning vistas, Antonio shared his thoughts on raising rabbit as well as the evolution of his family’s wine production over many years. The path to the vineyard is reached from high above, and is cut through the soft volcanic soil. The descent to the vineyards is quite steep and one must descend these caverns without slipping on the dry ground. At times, the use of a rope embedded into the rock is necessary to secure your footing. The grapes are hauled up for production upwards of twenty trips during the harvest—a robust and exhausting task. It takes a deep love for the land and respect for the craft in order to thrive and endure such taxing conditions. The proof is in this special wine. We are proud to have introduced Cantine Mazzella wine to America.